An orange screen of death on the Nintendo Switch is a fatal flaw. Contrary to popular belief, this problem is not software-related and requires a more complex repair than a simple software reinstall.
When the Nintendo Switch boots up, it performs a system check before allowing the device to power on. If the system detects a malfunction in a critical component, it stops and displays a solid color.
In this case, that color is orange, hence the term “orange screen of death.” Sometimes the device works intermittently, occasionally displaying an orange screen. This is equally bad and requires the same repair procedure.
Orange screen on startup
An orange screen of death usually only occurs when the Wi-Fi IC malfunctions.
The Nintendo Switch uses the Broadcom BCM4356XKUBG, a BGA integrated circuit. Sometimes the BGA beneath the IC can be damaged, preventing the Nintendo Switch from communicating with the integrated circuit.
This can sometimes happen randomly, but more often it’s due to user damage (such as dropping or bending the console while it’s in your pocket).
First, press and hold the power button for 12 seconds to turn it off. Then restart the device to see if the problem persists. If it does, you’ll need to use the more mechanical method below.
The simplest method is to resolder the IC using traditional hot air. The Nintendo Switch motherboard is very small, and considering the component size, resoldering the WiFi chip is a very viable option.
However, please note that this may cause the device to lose power completely. If this happens, the only solution is to replace the integrated circuit.
Repair Steps
To resolder the IC, remove the motherboard from the chassis and disconnect the removable EMMC module. Remove the EMI shielding protecting the WiFi chip (and other sensitive components) to access the BCM4356XKUBG chip.
Add a small amount of flux to the area and slowly heat the board, ideally at approximately 300 degrees Celsius with a 40 lpm airflow.
Once the motherboard reaches a certain temperature, increase the hot air temperature to 420-450 degrees Celsius and continue heating the specific area until the flux around the IC begins to bubble.
At this point, you need to tap the IC very gently to ensure it has successfully reflowed. If the BGA is molten, it will spring back into place. Be careful not to hit the IC forcefully, as this may knock it out of place. In this case, replacement is your only option.
Afterward, reassemble the motherboard using isopropyl alcohol or an ultrasonic cleaner. Continue testing. If you can get the device working, congratulations! However, durability is not guaranteed.
If the screen is still orange, or completely out of power, then you’ll need to replace the chip.
Preheat the motherboard first.
Do not do this work while the motherboard is still inside the case. There are tutorials on YouTube where amateurs do this, mounting the motherboard inside the case. This is not recommended, and you will likely damage the case or LCD screen.
After each component-level task, be sure to clean all flux residue from the motherboard. Leaving flux residue can corrode the motherboard over time.
Try testing the console with a fast network connection. The Nintendo Switch’s frame rate cap is approximately 60 Mbps, so any higher speed will confirm that the IC is working properly.
After repair, a comprehensive system test will be performed, including display, audio, charging, power supply, docking station, Joy-Con connectivity (wired and wireless), Wi-Fi connectivity, touchscreen functionality, and game reading and playing (using game cartridges, not digital downloads).
If you are a repair shop, we advise customers not to put the device in their pockets.
